How can I find out what power supply I have?

Discussion in 'Power Supplies and UPS's' started by Wouter, Mar 26, 2006.

  1. Wouter

    Wouter Big Geek

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    How can I find out what power supply I have in my computer?

    I mean without opening the case. Or is that impossible?
     
  2. donkey42

    donkey42 plank

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    there will probably be a label or a model and serial number on it, then just do a Google search (sorry megamaced) on the model and serial number, if the manufaturer is not on the back of the PSU
     
  3. Addis

    Addis The King

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    You can't find out without physically looking at it inside the case, theres usually a label on it. However sometimes the label can be covered up as the PSU may sit behind a plate to keep it secured. In that case you may need to unscrew it and carefully move it so you can see the label.
     
  4. Big B

    Big B HWF Godfather

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    As Addis said, you'll have to open up the case and look at the unit itself.
     
  5. Wouter

    Wouter Big Geek

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    Didn't actually open my case yet, but someone with exactly the same model numer (LPJ-350W), posted the following:

    - Total power 350W + 3,3V + 5V.
    - NoName (LPJ2) PSU, ATX 350W, Supports ATX, AMD processors, 20 pin motherboard connector.
    - OUTPUT +3,3V +5V +5VSB +12V 22A 32A 2A 16A MAX 150W 192W TOTAL 350W

    +3,3V: 22A
    +5V: 32A
    +5V standby: 2A
    +12V: 16A

    I want to know is this good enough for the XFX 6600GT 256MB DDR3 card that I ordered?

    In the XFX tech specs, they recommend at least a 300 Watt PSU, and on forums they advised to have at least 18 amps on the 12v rail (whatever that means). So it seems this number is too low, but will it work without problems on my computer?

    This is my computer currently,
    Case: "Targa" case (big heavy iron thing, one big(ger) fan at the back)
    Motherboard: Intel D865perl (AGP 4x and 8X, no PCI-E slot)

    PSU: see above

    Processor: Intel 2.4Ghz processor (Celeron I think, not sure)

    Ram: 1GB corsair value ram (2x512mb)

    DVD-Rom drive by Asus
    CD-RW drive by Samsung

    Graphic card: Geforce MX440 64MB --> will become XFX 6600GT DDR3 256MB
     
  6. Big B

    Big B HWF Godfather

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    My guess is that you'll likely be able to power it on, but you may start to experience some very, very weird things that you can't track down or simply stability issues. I ran an overclocked P4 2.4GHz overclocked to 3.1GHz with a few drives on a 350W power supply, but I had at least 18A on the 12V rail. and around 30A on the 3.3V and 5V rails.
     
  7. Wouter

    Wouter Big Geek

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    I've got one hard drive... Maxtox 80GB drive... IDE I think?
    ( It's about 4 years old now that drive, so would that be 5400 rpm or 7200 rpm? )

    2 sticks of 512MB DDR SD Ram
    DVD-Rom and CD-RW
    Mobo with integrated network card and integrated sound
    Intel PIV 2.4 ghz processor
    1 floppy drive 1,44"

    My powersupply seems to be much weaker than the one you describe, but maybe it will help that my machine is not as powerful?


     
  8. Big B

    Big B HWF Godfather

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    Without knowing what model hard drive you have, it's hard to say. It's probably more likely to be 5400RPM given the age, but no guarantee. The power supply is right on the edge, and I would advise looking at getting a new one or at the very least being prepared to buy a new one.
     
  9. Wouter

    Wouter Big Geek

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    Yes, I am preparing... however, I was reading following post:
    http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/showthread.php?t=136602

    Here they talk about using two power supplies. So I am wondering if this couldn't be a good solution for me? I have 2 older computers (one of them not that old, about the age of my current system) just sitting there, they're useless now, but the power supply very likely still works perfectly. I also still have my previous power supply that has been replaced. I think that one was 300W or at the very least 250W.

    They would be two old(er) and less powerful PSU's, but I'm thinking if I hook up my fan and hard drive to one of them (the oldest) and the rest to the 'newer' one, that might work?

    Otherwise, I'm looking at the following models:

    Q-tec PSU 450W Dual Fan PFC ( € 37,5)
    Spire Rocketeer III 500W ( € 47,5)
    Fortron/Source PSU ATX 350W Bulk, 120mm, SATA, 24pin ( €44,5)
     
  10. Wouter

    Wouter Big Geek

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    Hmmm... can a not-powerful-enough PSU actually do damage to other hardware? Or does it just make the system freeze or the computer reboot like my previous power supply did.

    Also it seems that the technician who put in the card probably didn't know his stuff. Cause when upgrading my PC, I said "put in a decent 350 Watt power supply, since I'm probably going to stick in a 6600GT later on".
     
  11. Big B

    Big B HWF Godfather

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    Depends on the quality. The Qtec brand is junk, and one that I'd avoid like the plauge.

    Fortron is a great brand, and overall, the one I'd go with when faced with those three.
     
  12. Wouter

    Wouter Big Geek

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    How about this one:

    - Coolermaster RS-430 Extreme Power (€ 40) ?
     
  13. Big B

    Big B HWF Godfather

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    I don't know enough about the long-term quality to know if they're a good company or not as far as power supplies go.

    Good brands:

    Antec
    Enermax
    Fortron (FSP Group)
    Sparkle (FSP Group)
    Thermaltake

    There's some other good brands, but they don't sell power supplies that can be had for a low price.

    Avoid:
    -QTec/Q-Technology
    -Ultra
    -Aerocool
    -Aspire
    -CoolMax
    -PowMax
    -MGE/MG
    -Sintek
     
  14. Wouter

    Wouter Big Geek

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    Hey, if a power supply has dual 12V-rails, then how do you calculate if it's powerful enough? For example, if such a PSU has 14amps on the +12V1 rail and 15amps on the +12V2 rail, what does that mean? Can you just add them up, so you get 29amps or what?

    Oh, and what about Tagan? Is that a good brand?
     
  15. Big B

    Big B HWF Godfather

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    The purpose of multiple 12V rails is to provide indepentend voltages to the CPU, which runs off the 12V, and PCIe video cards which also run off the 12V. Adding them up doesn't quite work out to be a full 29A in this case. If you understand RMS with stereo speakers, it's pretty similar. Now, you have to understand: AGP runs off the 3.3V rail, not the 12V like PCIe, so in this case, dual 12V rails wouldn't be all that beneficial. Unless you plan to migrate to a PCIe system in the near future, you're better off getting a 350-400W unit with 18-20A on the 12V, and 30-40A on the 3.3V and 5V rail.

    Amperes (amps for short) is the designated term for current in electronics. It's the muscle component.

    Tagan is a good brand.
     
  16. Wouter

    Wouter Big Geek

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    Isn't that within my specs though?


    Watts: 350

    +3,3V: 22A
    +5V: 32A
    +5V standby: 2A
    +12V: 16A


    It says 22 amps on the 3.3V rail?

     
  17. Big B

    Big B HWF Godfather

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    No.

    22A is less than 30A. Your CPU draws off the 12V rail. AGP video cards draw off the 3.3V rail. PCIe video cards draw off the 12V rail. Either way, your power supply is really kinda iffy at best.
     
  18. Wouter

    Wouter Big Geek

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    Oh. Sorry!

    Seems I mixed up the two.

    Edit: all these Watt/Voltage/Ampere numbers are making me dizzy... :confused:

     
  19. Wouter

    Wouter Big Geek

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    I downloaded Everest Home edition and put the results in an online PSU calculator. Here are the results:

    Intel PIV socket 478 Northwood (64 Watt)
    nvidia Gforce 6600GT 500Mzh (48 Watt)
    2 banks of PC3200 DDR SD Ram (20 Watt)
    1 IDE 5400 hard drive (15 Watt)
    DVD-ROM Drive (25 Watt)
    CD-RW Drive (20 Watt)
    Motherboard (25 Watt)
    Keyboard & Mouse (3 Watt)
    CPU FAN (3 Watt)
    80mm Case Fan (2 Watt - don't think I actually have this, just to be 'safe')

    Recommended:
    Load 225 Watt
    +3.3V --> 1 Amp
    +5V --> 9.6 Amp
    +12V --> 14.5 Amp

    Does that sound right? If it would help, I could post a full report from the Everest program.
     
  20. Wouter

    Wouter Big Geek

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