I ordered a new PSu and Graphics card, which i just recieved today. I put in the PSU, and everything is fine. I remove my old GPU and put in the new one (an ATI Radeon HD 4850), and plug in the 6-pin PCI-E connector. I push the power button, and the blu LED on the PSU flashed on, then nothing. The computer refuses to start. This is the PSU i bought: Newegg.com - Rosewill RP600V2-S-SL 600W SLI Ready-ATX12V V2.01 Power Supply 115/230 V CSA,UL,TUV,FCC - Power Supplies I think it's the graphics card, becuase the PSU works, but i've heard of people having problems with this unit under powering their system.
To be completely honest, you might just have a faulty PSU, Rosewill is not really known for their quality. However, i would do some testing first, put your old card back in, and see what happens, if you still get nothing, then you know whats going on.
I asked this same question on another forum, and was told the same thing about Rosewill PSUs. With the old card, it's fine, but the old card i had was an 8600GT, and it has no 6-pin connector required. I've already RMA'd the PSU (Just need to send it back), and i'm gonna try and go with a better different PSU, like was suggested on the other forum.
Awesome, sounds like your all figured out. Do you have a PSU already picked out, or are you still looking for suggestions there?
I haven't picked out a PSU yet, just had some brands suggested to me, like Enermax, Antec, FSP. So, yeah, still looking for suggestions (about another week before i can order).
My favorites are pretty much anything by FSP, and PC Power & Cooling. All of their units are pretty much solid, can't really go wrong.
To add: Corsair, Silverstone, CoolerMaster, XClio... Rosewill, Apevia (formerly Aspire), Q-tech, Powmax, most Ultra, and some Coolmax (though they're getting better) are crap. Coolmax is probably in the mediocre category, but they've been making some solid progress. Rosewill might end up higher, but since you play Russian Roulette with them, it's not worth it.
Well, to add an update, i ordered a 650W Antec PSU from newegg. Newegg.com - Antec NeoPower 650 Blue 650W ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply 100 - 240 V UL, CUL, CE, CB, FCC Class B, TUV, CCC, C-tick - Power Supplies After putting it in today, the computer ran fine. Then i put in the HD 4850, and plugged in the 6-pin connector, and hit the power button. The blue light on the PSU lit up for a moment, then went out, the computer wouldn't power up. I'm beginning to think that this is a problem with the GPU instead of the PSU
hmm, no, your graphics card shouldn't stop your machine from booting, that would more than likely be your mainboard. If your vid card is broken in anyway, it wouldn't stop your machine from turning on, it would still turn on, but there would ether be no output to the monitor, or the picture wouldn't show up right. To test, just take out the graphics card and try to power it up, if the machine turns on, then you know for sure it has nothing to do with the graphics card.
Well, i have the PSU in the comp right now, and have my old GPU in as well, and it's running fine. As a side note, one of my buddies decided to try something on it, and he took the card out of the comp, set it on an anti-static bag, and plugged in the 6-pin connector, and got the same results as when i had it in the comp. The problem only ever occurs when i have the 6-pin connector plugged into the card. When the card is in the PCIE slot, the computer boots, but i have to use the onboard graphics.
I RMA'd it last night, shipped it off this morning. If it's not the card, then i have no idea what the problem is. I'll just wait till i get the replacement and see.
Post your p.c. stats, What make is your old card? Not sure mobos with nvidea chipset support ATI cards? I"ll check it out myself, See what i can find :x:
mm hmm, that is interesting, and yes, that would cause problems is the card is drawing to much power, or a host of other electrical issues, but it sounds like you've gotten your problems figured out, good work.
Yep, just waiting for replacement. Anyway, i have another question that is somewhat related to this. The above power supply and the GPU were bought in advance, to save buying all parts of my build at once (will be using them in an HP prebuilt comp bought recently, before i finished school and switched to full time at work, now to be sold to younger bro). This is the case i'm getting for it: Newegg.com - RAIDMAX SMILODON Extreme Black ATX-612WEBP 1.0mm SECC Steel ATX Mid Tower Foldout MB Computer Case With 500W Power Supply - Computer Cases The CPU is an AMD Phenon 9550 with ARCTIC COOLING Freezer Pro 7 and arctic silver 5 thermal compound: Newegg.com - AMD Phenom 9550 Agena 2.2GHz 4 x 512KB L2 Cache 2MB L3 Cache Socket AM2+ 95W 65nm Quad-Core Processor - Processors RAM: Newegg.com - G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 1000 (PC2 8000) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory - Desktop Memory and this is the mobo: Newegg.com - ASUS M3N78 PRO AM2+/AM2 NVIDIA GeForce 8300 HDMI ATX AMD Motherboard - AMD Motherboards First thing i want to know is whether or not the Freezer pro will be adequate enough to keep the CPU running cool, as well as if the case is good enough for cooling. The second is about the board. That board is one of the cheeper AM2+ boards on newegg, the other one i was looking at was this one: Newegg.com - ASUS M3A32-MVP Deluxe AM2+/AM2 AMD 790FX ATX AMD Motherboard - AMD Motherboards What's the difference between the two that would make the second one so much more expensive? I want to get a decent board that won't completely break me (i could pay the extra for the more expensive one, though, no big deal), but as far as i can tell from looking, the only real difference is the PCIE slots and the north bridge. Hopefully none of these are ridiculously nooby, but i want to make sure that all of these are good parts that will work well together, as this is my first build. Any other suggestions for CPU coolers and cases would be appreciated.
Well, my two cents. The Smilodon case will cool your rig for sure, but i am a huge fan of Antec and Gigabyte cases. The difference between the two boards there is the more expensive one is geared towards gaming and overclocking as well supports crossfire. The cheaper board is more of the same, without the overclocking abilities. I'm guessing you have a freezer pro? Ether way, just make sure that your freezer pro 7 is rated to cool that CPU and you'll be fine, but thats a boxed unit, so it will come with a heatsink and fan already. Also, for what your are doing my choice would be something like this Newegg.com - GIGABYTE GA-MA770-DS3 AM2+/AM2 AMD 770 ATX All Solid Capacitor AMD Motherboard - AMD Motherboards
I was reading the reviews on the Freezer Pro 7, and heard it worked well with a Q6600. Then i decided to look at the specs and saw that it worked with Intel processors, and wasn't compatible with AM2/AM2+ XD. I was wanting to get it (or just another CPU cooler) because i wasn't sure how well the included CPU cooler would work (had that suggested by a friend of mine who used to build comps, but, unfortunately, moved). I suppose that i could just the stock cooler with the Arctic silver compound and see how it works out. Also, thanks for the suggestion on the board, i may look into that one instead of the one i had previously picked out. Also, i think i may go with the Antec 900 case instead of the Smilodon. Also, another question (i have many of them, i know, but i am learning XD) If i were to buy the board and the case (i.e., to put my current RAM, CPU, etc, in the case, to test the board and check the case for a short, my friend has had problems with cases in the past) would i have to reinstall windows, or could i just put my connect my hard drive and run the install CD. I ask this because i sold an old comp to a friend, and wanted to keep my HD, and he wanted to keep his, but it didn't work because of differences in hard ware going from his old comp to the new one.
As long as your not overclocking your processor, you'll be fine, the stock cooler will work for sure. I've had mixed luck with swapping HDD's and new hardware. One thing you can do that seems to help your chances a lot, is to uninstall your chipset, graphics card, audio, networking, ect drivers before swapping the HDD.
