Everything query

I just know quite a few times on tv when they've discussed fraud rates on ebay computer equipment is at the top of the list.
 
Hmm, I guess that could be true, but I find it hard to believe. Only because there is feedback for every seller (and buyer). If someone buys a part from someone that doesn't work or is packaged poorly or something else bad, they will leave negative feedback. Almost every seller I check has tons of positive feedback and very little or no negative feedback, which means 9 out of 10, possibly more, people received their product and it worked correctly.
 
Have two of them right now. One is the XP333R with the ALi Magik chipset. Only real problem with this board is the non-adjustable multiplier with the board revision I have. Also, and this is probably due more to the chipset, is some problems with more than 1 DIMM slot in use. Works pretty good. I also have a P4D with the Intel 845 chipset using DDR. Very stable---which it should be considering it's got an Intel chipset. I haven't played with either much lately, but I'd say they're Asus level quality at a lower price.

The XP333-R I bought refurbished for $50 at Newegg. This is the version with ATA133 RAID and uses a HighPoint chip---which are usually more versatile than Promise chips on motherboards. I'm not sure if they're still available, but that would be something to check out. It use the CMedia sound chip you wanted and does come with the bracket--at least my refurb did, so do know that ordering a refurb board might not give you the bracket for the rear and subwoofer outs.
 
Originally posted by archcommus
Yes, but see that box sticking out the back? Well, I was able to figure out how to remove it, but I'm not sure if I even need to remove it to insert expansion cards. Anyone know that has a case like this?
Click to expand...

Actually, yeah. I'm working on a system for some guy that has that same thing on the back. The screw right above the thing comes out and you push up (it may take a little umph to get it off the first time). The one I'm dealing with also has a lot of 3.5 bays for a midtower. Just under $40 locally, which is pretty dang good. I would look at a better power supply however. The brand that came with the one I'm working on isn't recognizable and doesn't have very high total output.
 
Okay, then, perhaps I'll consider an Iwill board. A board with onboard sound and ATA/133 for only $50 is incredible. However, I can't seem to find anything of the kind on newegg. From what I saw they only had two Iwill mainboards. Is there a section for this that I'm missing? I was always leary about getting a refurbished board - what exactly does that mean they did to it?
However, that DIMM thing could be an issue, as I will definitely be using at least two of my DIMM slots. What kind of problems occur with that?

Yeah, my case also has 3.5" bays all the way down to the floor, for a total of four hidden bays. I'm not sure of the brand of my power supply, but I know its output is 400W. The case and the power supply together was only $28. Now, do you even need to remove that case on the back to insert expansion cards? Just from looking at it it looks like you wouldn't have to.
 
http://www.newegg.com/app/catalog.asp?type=Refurbish

Well, the refurbished section is out of any Iwill boards for the AMD platform.

I've heard that Fry's Electronics was selling them a while back. I'm not sure if they still carry them, but they also sold them for $50 new.

Refurbished means that someone didn't like the board or had problems with it and sent it back. If Iwill could fix it, they did and sent it back to Newegg (or whoever sent them it from their returns) and it's marked down. For all you know, it may not be anything you'll notice and may work fine.

I haven't bought from them, but alot of people seem to like www.directron.com . I've seen that they've had the XP333R with them at one time. I'm not sure if they still do however.
 
Originally posted by archcommus
Now, do you even need to remove that case on the back to insert expansion cards? Just from looking at it it looks like you wouldn't have to.
Click to expand...

To insert the card, no. To screw it down, yes.
 
Thanks a lot, I'll check out both those links. If I can't find anything good for cheaper than $65, though, I think I will go with the MSI KT3 Ultra2-C from www.buyxg.com.

Well, I guess I won't understand why until I do it myself, because it looks like the screw would just go in the hole, and you'd have adequate space to screw it in without removing the box. Guess not, though.
 
The screw goes in from the part that's covered up to hold the cards in place. It won't hold them if it's put in the other way.
 
Yes, but the holes aren't covered up when the box is in. Oh well, I'm sure I'll see how it is when I actually get to doing that.
 
Well, I finally bought a motherboard. It's an MSI KT3 Ultra. I got in on eBay for $53.00 plus I think $8 shipping. ATA/133, 5.1 onboard sound, D-bracket, non-OEM, Socket A, etc. I've read one place that the highest this board supports is 2200+, but somewhere else that it's 2700+. Does anyone know which is true? And, in all actuality, why couldn't it support anything that's Socket A?
 
Latest bios I can see on MSI's site adds support for the 2400+ and 2600+ so I'm sure it'll take the 2700/2800+ as well.
 
Do you have any idea what kinds of things limit it to how fast of a processor it can take?

Oh yeah, one other thing. The motherboard I bought is an MSI KT3 Ultra, but the only one I see on their site is an MSI KT3 Ultra2. So should I take any manuals, BIOS updates, etc. from that one?
 
Drivers should be the same. I would not use the BIOS's however. The boards are pretty similar, but, a wrong BIOS could spell bad news for you. I'll have to check out the site and see what I can dig up. If you want a second opinion---and I've probably mentioned this site before---is AMDMB. One of the best sites on the web (besides us :chk: ), and probably the best AMD specific site online. Someone may have used an Ultra 2 BIOS on a plain Ultra board, but I would be extremely careful when it comes to the BIOS. The manual might be okay, but take it with a grain of salt just in case.

Processor limitation is kinda tricky to say. The chipset is a major part as is the company's support via a BIOS update. Also, the FSB of the CPU can play a factor. I'm sure there are others as well, but these are the biggies. Of course, the socket used by a CPU can be considered a limitation as well.
 
Okay, I'll stay away from a BIOS upgrade then unless I know it's for the Ultra. What about the drivers, like the VIA 4-in-1 drivers?

Actually, I can't find ANYTHING about the MSI KT3 Ultra anywhere - everything's the Ultra2 or Ultra2-C or something. I wonder what the Ultra lacks compared to the Ultra2. Hopefully nothing important. Perhaps this board actually is an Ultra2 and the seller just reported it as an Ultra.
 
In addition to that question, I have produced a few new ones after reading the Ultra2 manual.

1) There are four fan power connectors on the motherboard: processor fan, system fan, power supply fan, and chipset fan. I know processor fan is for my heatsink. I have no clue about the other three.

-- BIOS QUESTIONS --

2) I'm guessing I should have Boot to OS/2 set to Yes?

3) What is MPS Table Version?

4) Wow, there are a TON of memory settings. Should I just enable SPD and let it do all the work?

5) Ugh...all the AGP settings! Leave at default?

6) Should I set all the power management settings in BIOS or leave that to the OS?

7) For everything in the Integrated Peripherals menu, should I leave them at the defaults or tweak them to exactly what I actually have?

8) What do you recommend should be the CPU critical temperature for an Athlon XP 2100+?

9) Should I change anything from the defaults in the Frequency/Voltage Control menu?



I know that's a lot, but it's all things I've been wondering since I read the manual. Thanks!
 
1.)Those are just extra fan headers if you want to use them.

2.)Not familiar with that board's BIOS so I can't give a fair evaluation of it. If there's not a setting to boot to the hard drive, that should be it.

3.)MPS Table version deals with multiprocessing, but if you want, set it to 1.4.

4.)Lower memory settings run the memory faster, though you may not necessarily be able to run all these timings with stability. Leave them at the default until you get your system running up and stable before toying around with them.

5.)See #4.

6.)I leave mine at whatever the default is.

7.)I eventually turn off stuff I don't use (like Serial and Parallel ports), but you don't really have to deal with it immediately. Leaving that stuff on won't hurt anything.

8.)I really don't play with this either, however, if you want, I'd have it set for 75-80*C since that's looking at cooking the CPU.

9.)Not unless you want to overclock. Even then, wait until you've got your system setup and working properly. Then, if you want, you can go play with the overclocking.

Via 4-in-1 drivers work for any Via-based board, so just grab the latest. So long as it's integrated into the motherboard, the other drivers should work as MSI uses the same sound and LAN chips on their board series---at least usually. If it won't work with your board they will say.

I'll have to check the site and see what I can come up with.
 
Ah, thanks for all the replies, Big B. So I guess a good summary for the BIOS is...leave most stuff alone? At least at first.

So my normal case fans will plug directly into power supplies from the PSU, not the motherboard, correct? The other three are not required to be used then?

Darn, archived?? That makes me feel like I bought an old board. Anyway, thanks for digging that link up for me.
 
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