New MoBo but HDD won't work with it

C

candleman

Geek Trainee
Hi guys, my first post here and i need some help.

I’ve just installed a replacement MoBo, and I’m having a problem i've not encountered before.

If I connect the HDD to the PSU the PC won’t boot up. All the fans work but I can’t get into bios and have no display and just short repetitive beeps from the speaker. I also have to power down from the mains plug.

If I disconnect the HDD from the PSU and reboot no problem the PC fires up as normal, and I can get into BIOS etc as one would expect. Power down from the front switch as per usual. :(

I know the HDD is working as it was connected as a slave to an old PC a couple of days ago to back up the files in preparation for the new MoBo being fitted. Yes I have reset the jumpers to master.

Disconnecting the DVD, CD etc and using their connectors to the HDD doesn’t make a difference. I have not added video cards etc as yet so running on just onboard video and sound. I have also tried with a spare PSU, although a 230W example, and still no joy.

Any ideas anyone. I'm hoping the MoBo's not U/S before i've started.

MoBo- Foxconn K7S741GXMG-6L

Socket A

AMD Athlon XP 2400+

256 Mb Ram- Hynix

HDD- Maxtor 6Y120L0 - 120Gb – ATA 133

PSU -Suntek AM608B1-300-300w ATX
 
try setting the HDD & CD / DVD on the same IDE channel to C/S (cable select) if the devices are IDE

BTW: the device on the end of the cable will be master (HDD) & the device connected to the middle of the IDE cable will be the slave (CD / DVD drive)

Edit: or set the HDD to slave and change the boot priority in the BIOS to boot from IDE 1 or D:

BTW: 230W is a very low wattage PSU, try a better one, although wattage alone doesn't mean anything, because a decent brand 300W PSU can supply more power than some unbranded or a not very good brand 500W PSU
 
Hi donkey42

Tried everything you suggested and more.

I cannot get the hard dive to work if the DVD and/or the cd is connected.

I have swapped PSU,s and nothing much happens which is different.

This is a brand new MoBo, which i bought to replace an Asus board which had gone down (the spec is almost identical). Looks like i got a duff board unless anyone has any other suggestions.

candleman
 
with a new mobo, personally i'd try reseting the BIOS as some unscrupulous vendors resell items that have being returned to them as faulty, & in my experience a BIOS reset resets all the settings changed by someone who didn't actually know what they were changing, so try a BIOS reset

BTW: if you don't know how to do it yet, just post here and i'll supply instructions
 
Thanks.

I've never done one before, as I've always heeded the warnings "if it aint broke don't fix it", but it may be worth giving it a go in this case.

The supplier is O.K. about replacing the MoBo so i do not think he is dodgy, and the box it came in was well sealed to.

candleman
 
candleman said:
I've never done one before, as I've always heeded the warnings "if it aint broke don't fix it", but it may be worth giving it a go in this case.
Click to expand...
ok, it's very easy, the first thing you need to do is locate the BIOS battery (it usually looks like a big watch battery, but is about the size of 10p)

now there are a few ways to reset the BIOS
  • carefully remove the BIOS battery for 10 - 15 seconds then replace the battery by sliding it back into place, the battery usually slides in & out, but do NOT use metal tweezers to help you remove the battery, as you will short out the battery & then you'll have to buy a new battery

    if you don't have a standard BIOS battery it may be soldered to the mobo & may look like a capacitor on it's side with wire coming out of each end
    if your battery is like this there is a small 3 pin jumper set near the battery

  • i think the jumper is on pins 1 & 2 move it to pins 2 & 3 for 10 - 15 seconds then move the jumper back
  • enter the BIOS usually you press <Del> during HDD detection & before POST (but you system may use F1 or another key) and navigate to "Reset to Defaults" with the cursor keys and press <enter> / <return>

BTW: i think <F5> also resets to default, just look around the screen for a description of the F keys, <F1> = help, <F10> = save & exit <Esc> = don't save and exit

congrats you've just reset your first BIOS / CMOS

candleman said:
The supplier is O.K. about replacing the MoBo so i do not think he is dodgy, and the box it came in was well sealed to.
Click to expand...
:good:

candleman said:
I cannot get the hard dive to work if the DVD and/or the cd is connected.
Click to expand...
is the HDD detected by the BIOS both with & without your DVD drive attached, both before and after the BIOS reset ?
 
I didn't realise that was all i had to do to reset Bios. I have done this before, so i am just being a plonker not realising what you meant. As a matter of course i change these batteries on the MoBos that i have fitted, including this one so i guess it was reset at that point.

To date, If all the drives are connected i cant get into bios, i have to disconnect something (either cd & DVd or Hdd)
 
candleman said:
I didn't realise that was all i had to do to reset Bios. I have done this before, so i am just being a plonker not realising what you meant. As a matter of course i change these batteries on the MoBos that i have fitted, including this one so i guess it was reset at that point.
Click to expand...
yes, if it was left out for over 10 seconds

candleman said:
To date, If all the drives are connected i cant get into bios, i have to disconnect something (either cd & DVd or Hdd)
Click to expand...
then i guess it's a power issue, what is the make & model of your PSU & please list the components you have installed

Edit: BIOS batteries can last upto 10 years, however, changing the BIOS battery once every 5 years (or less if there's a problem) is fine

Edit: google shows nothing about Suntek AM608B1
 
Hi again back at work. Its the the only PC i can easily access the forums from but it does mean i can only do it in working hours and between phone calls and flying my cad station. The other downside is i have to wait till i get home to try any suggestions out.

Specs of installed equipment as follows.
Windows XP Home SP2
Foxconn K7S741GXMG-6LP
Phoenix Bios (not certain of version)
AMD Athlon XP 2400+ 2000MHz
256Mb Ram PC2100 (Hynix)
Maxtor 6Y120L0 ATA133 120Gb HDD
Floppy Drive
ATAPI CD-RW 52X max
Sony DVD-Rom DDU1612
Radeon 9100 series 64Mb Graphics card
SoftK56 Data Fax Speakerphone CARP modem
Suntek AMB 608B1-300 – 300W ATX psu
+12V 16A
-12V 0.8A
-5V 0.5A
+5Vsb 2A
+5V 30A
+3.3V 32A

Does this help. I have not installed any of the peripheral card as yet i am running off on board sound & graphics, keeping it as bare bones as possible.

Candleman
 
that is not a very good PSU, especially as you spec is not bad, personally i have an Antec Trio 550W - highly recommended, have you added the rails together to arrive @ those Amp ratings ?, if not then that PSU is worse than i thought cos it onl has a single rail, look @ Bs PSU Sticky about PSUs
 
No I haven’t. I have just copied what was written in the side of the casing.

From memory I have 5 rails in total , 3 being used for HDD, CD-RW & DVD-ROM. Are you saying that the 12V 16A is split across the 3 connectors, in effect only pulling 5A each.
 
Problem solved. Fitted another PSu, only this time a brand new 350W one out of the box. It's only a cheap one, about £6 so i will replace it with a better one shortly, when money permits. I was intending to upgrade a few bits before the MoBo went down. Everything now working fine, Windows installed O.k. with no dramas.

Funny how the working PSU's i borrowed wouldn't power up my set up, but seem to be working fine in their host machines.

Candleman
 
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